Though some get nervous handling and cleaning expensive shades like Silhouettes, it is not difficult, nor does it need to be a "scary" experience.  With a proper understanding of this product and how to handle it during cleaning, it can be routinely and profitably cleaned.  On the other hand - it should be noted that with a careless pre-inspection, improper handling or sloppy cleaning protocols, disaster can easily strike - making it an expensive proposition indeed.  

   Successfully cleaning Silhouettes (or similar shades) involves several key steps. Failure to exercise care in any one of them may lead to either a damaged shade, or a disappointed client.  As with any type of custom shade, if you are going to offer to clean them, invest the time in learning how to do it correctly.  Asking questions is cheaper than buying new shades.  Don't believe everything you may hear about their care and cleaning from "old pros" as flawed procedures or misinformation (sincere as it may be) will still be flawed.  The key steps in cleaning Silhouettes or Silhouette style shades are the pre-inspection, preparation, cleaning, drying and reinstallation.

Pre-Inspection:

The pre-inspection is where trouble may either be avoided or where its path begins.  When possible, the inspection of the shade is an ideal time to education the client on the shades features and to raise any concerns that may be discovered as you determine whether or not you can clean it.  Older shades with failing glue lines, sun rotted fabric or badly frayed edges may be trouble waiting to happen.  Test the glue lines and the back sheer fabric with gentle finger pressure after a careful visual inspection.  If you see or feel deteriorated fabric, the shade shouldn't be cleaned.  If the shade is more than 10+ years old or has been hanging constantly in the sun, be careful and let the owner know that you aren't going to be responsible for existing fabric damage.  Water and a proper cleaning won't in of themselves damage polyester fabric.  However, the weight and stress of the water in a wet shade whose fabric is compromised already by age, sun or mistreatment, may lead to catastrophic failures in the shade.  Better to be safe than sorry.   When doing your inspections, remember each shade is in its own unique environment and may be different in terms of use or abuse.  Shangri-La shades and other variants of the Silhouettes have multiple glue lines and are often more susceptable to glue line failures or deterioration.

   If the edges of the shade show signs of fraying or fuzzing along one side near the bottom or along the lower half of the shade, an imbalanced installation may be to blame.  Silhouettes have a weight bar that is easily slid toward the rubbing edge to correct slight imbalances, which are not uncommon on long narrow shades.  The use of shims to level out the installation brackets may be required in more extreme cases.  While correction of an imbalanced shade is best done after it is cleaned, the owner aught to be made aware of the problem, the solution, and the existing damage before you handle the shade.  Nantuckets, Shangri-La and other similar shades don't have the weight adjustments in the lower rail, so balancing the brackets, if needed, is your best option.  When you check a shade by rolling it up and down during your inspection, if you note that the fabric rubs the clutch or side of the header along one edge, correct the problem before it causes damage to the shade later.   

   If the brackets holding the shade are broken, replacement with the new flip lever brackets is easy to do while the shade is down for cleaning (if cleaning ultrasonically), or it should be done before you clean a shade in the window, so a shade isn't damaged by coming out of a bracket accidentally.  The center tab in the orginal brackets can be broken or cracked by too much pressure, and the plastic bridges in the second generation brackets are sometimes brittle with age.

Shade Removal & Transport:

  Installation brackets for the Silhoeutte are now in their third generation.  The originals require a standard flat blade screw driver to gently push up and twist the center tab to release the shade (best done with the shade rolled at least part way down to avoid rubbing the fabric with the screw driver).  The second generation brackets have a little plastic edge peeking over the front of the shade (if it hasn't yet been broken) that is lifted as you slide the shade straight out.  The latest version of the bracket is a plastic flip lever visible along the top edge of the header that snaps to the left to release the shade.  Broken or damaged brackets can be easily replaced with new ones, if necessary.  

   Removed shades should be labeled for their location - use a marker along the top edge of the end cap.  (If you write on the header and wrap the fabric over it, when cleaning, the marker may bleed and leave marks on the fabric, in some instances.) If there are holes, tears or other damage, you can also note it on the header using symbols that let whomever is cleaning the blind know (as well as the homeowner) that the damage was present prior to cleaning.

   Wrap the shades, if they are being transported for cleaning, using a clean fabric sheet, blanket or something that will protect them from scratches and other damage caused by rubbing.   If rolling multiple blinds in one roll, do them in pairs facing "back to back" as just rolling them up will result in some lower rail stops damaging the fabric if they are pushed by other shades while being carried under pressure. You want to protect the paint from scratches, the plastic ends from being banged or caught on edges, and, of course, the shades from dents, dings or more dirt.

Basic Cleaning Steps:

   Many home owners never vacuum their shades.  If you take a few moments to blow off the dust and loose bugs, or vacuum out the loose soils, they won't be sticking to the fabric or floating in your cleaning solution.  Use a ShadeBrite head, or low suction drapery head, to vacuum the shade while in the flat position.  If using a blower, open the shade and blow the cells from the center toward the edges while flicking or bouncing your wrist to help aggitate and bounce the debris out the ends. (If there is a heavy layer of dry lint along the glue lines from a valance, what isn't blown out may have to be "raked" out using a soft toothbrush after cleaning.)

   If there are splatter spots in the fabric, or it is really dirty with years of grime, nicotine, candle, or other soot, etc., a pre-treatment may be in order before the regular cleaning process.  We never advocate "spotting" a dry fabric, so wet down the fabric first.  Use a smooth wash wall or flat plastic table (with smooth top and edges).  Spray the wet shade (fabric always in the flat position) with your pre-treatment (degreaser - for grimy white or light colored shades, SMART for soot or dingy, Citrabrite or other citrus cleaner for grimy fabric) and use your hand or a soft (car wash type) brush to work it into the fabric and loosen the soils.  If working on a wash wall, work your way UP the shade so dirty grime isn't running down onto untreated fabric.  After working in the pre-treatment, allow it a few minutes dwell time - while preping another shade etc.  Be careful not to get any strong chemicals on the paint of the header or fabric wrapped headers.   If you have really dirty shades, rinsing off the pre-treatment grime before washing the shade will extend the cleaning ability of your wash tank, as several large grimy Silhouettes may unload a lot of grime!

Ultrasonic Cleaning

    Presentation

    Rotation

    Header out of water

      Electronics

    Lifting

  Rinsing

Drying

   Hanging Methods

   Sucking out Excess Water - Wicking Prevention

   Specialty Spotting

Return & Rehang

   Don't bag damp Silhouettes for storage!

   Protect & Prevent

   Balance & Mounting Check

{Article under construction - please feel free to make suggestions or comments.  We value your input.}