Before one cleans any blind a thorough pre-inspection should be done.  Even if it is “just a mini blind,” there still exists the potential for problems that can easily be avoided.

Pre-Inspection:  Is the blind in good working order?  Does the cord lock work smoothly and are the cords in acceptable condition?  How are the anchor tapes, end caps, anchor tape buttons and tassels? Are there repairs you need to discuss with the owner?  What type of finish is on the blind, and is it oxidized, or damaged in any other way?  If it is greasy, it is best to explain to the owner now (before cleaning is attempted) that some types of grease (or hot splatters) damage the finish.  

Are you comfortable with the client's expectations for the cleaning?

Hand Methods:  Most mini blinds may be safely cleaned by hand with a mild detergent and a soft brush.   Some blind cleaners use a low power pressure washer and washing board followed by a clear water (or deionized water) rinse, before using a portable drying rack to allow them to dry.

Ultrasonic Cleaning:  Ultrasonic blind cleaning is the easiest way to clean mini blinds in volume, and when done properly gives the best results.  No hand method cleans every surface, cords and mechanical parts with the thoroughness of ultrasonic power.  While some who aren’t as familiar with ultrasonic cleaning believe that it damages blinds, the reality is that while improper cleaning methods or use of ultrasonic power will cause damage, a knowledgeable blind cleaner avoids problems by following good cleaning procedures and paying attention to details.

Cleaning Chemistry:   What chemicals should be used to clean blinds?  Generally, the best results are achieved with cleaning agents designed specifically for the type of cleaning one is doing.  Ultrasonic blind cleaning soaps (liquid or powders) work safely for a wide range of blinds and shades.  Some are even designed with water conditioners and other chemistry to enhance the ultrasonic action and the cleaning process.  While one may pay $180-$200 per pail from some vendors, in our tests we’ve found others costing less than $100 a pail to work just as good and in some cases better.  A number of our members swear by specific brands of dish soaps or other cleaners that they have used successfully for many years.  One should avoid cleaners that are stronger acids or bases, or those like bleach that may damage fabrics.  (Note for novices - Using oxidizers like Oxyclean in the ultrasonic cleaning tank is a waste of time as the degassing process of the sonics negates the benefits of the oxidation.)  If you need to add some bite for really dirty blinds or greasy ones, you can add a few ounces of degreaser or citrus cleaner.  Avoid strong degreasers with oxidized blinds, those with flat finishes, or if you intent to clean fabric blinds in the same water!

The water temperature for cleaning blinds should be not more than about 100 degrees.  Cold water doesn’t generate the same cavitation energy as warmer water does or clean as well.  However, hot water will promote oxidation on the flat paint finishes of Levelor Rivera blinds, and cause other problems (at 105-110 cheap vinyl slats warp, and some clear coats on metallic blinds soften or even peel off).  If you are cleaning other fabric blinds in the same tank, the higher temperatures will also cause problems with puckering (in Silhouettes type shades) and may adversely affect brittle glues and fabrics.

   Having a spot free blind after cleaning begins with allowing the drag out (dirty water in blind, as it is removed from the wash tank) to drain into the wash tank for 10 seconds or so before putting it into clean rinse water that is conditioned (not hard water) and that contains a rinse agent (not necessary if using de-ionized water) which promotes the sheeting of the water to minimize water drops or spotting.  Water spots are caused as the water leaves behind residual minerals, soils, etc. in the evaporation zone, around the edge of the water droplet as it evaporates.  Hanging blinds with the vanes tilted back slightly and wiping them with a towel to smear the larger drops works, if you are really worried about spots.

Drying:  Use of a high speed air blower (pet grooming blower, large shop vac in blower mode, or even from an air compressor) to get the bulk of the water off the blinds before rehanging them has two benefits.  The blinds drop open without having to separate all of the vanes and excess water isn't dripping off the blinds onto the window sill or leaving spots as they finish drying.

   Also, another tip for novices:  Don’t ever forget that the clock starts ticking on a wet blind as soon as it is removed from the water.  If you allow the blind to remain closed with the slats touching each other long enough for the water to start drying, then the vanes will stick and the paint may peel.  Depending upon conditions, this may be only a matter of minutes in a hot dry trailer or truck in Arizona, or an air conditioned building, or hot window sill; so get the clean blinds open to dry promptly to avoid problems.  We know of a building where the maintenance men ruined a bunch of blinds, because they left wet blinds laying outside on the ground overnight after an unsuccessfull cleaning attempt - before calling the professionals.  We've also heard more than one story of "professional" blind cleaners who have ruined a large number of blinds due to leaving wet or damp blinds closed too long.  Here’s what you get when you try to open such a blind. {illustration} You can see the shine of bare metal where the paint stuck to the vane above it in this close up photo {illustration2}.

   Drying blinds in an open position which allows air to circulate freely is important.  If water stays on bare metal for long, you’ll get rusting and corrosion, so the use of fans always helps.  Finally, just because a blind looks dry, doesn’t mean that it really is.  Anyone who has cleaned an old char brown or umber mini with a flat finish has seen what initially looks like terrible water spotting disappear as the blind dries. (One can get serious spotting from an oxidized blind or one with a flat paint, if it was cleaned improperly.)  Wiping the top and bottom rails free of water spots is also a nice finishing touch.

   When the blind is rehung, double check to be sure it is securely on the brackets.  Then rotate the slats to check the tilter, and to align them nicely.  You don’t want a call back about an inoperable blind.

  How much you charge for cleaning a blind should be predicated by your market and cleaning method.  Finding the right price point is a balance between what your market will produce and how efficient your operation is able to do the work.  Pricing is typically figured either by the linear foot, square foot, or by some cleaners by counting the anchor tapes.  Volume and commercial pricing is usually lower, though don’t be too quick to discount large jobs if the logistics don’t actually lend themselves to higher efficiency.  Some cleaners charge a flat fee for take down and rehanging services, while others do it on a per window basis backed by a minimum job size.